What this template makes: Kerf test

Kerf test

A strip of notches and a key for every kerf value: the one that goes in snug tells you what number to enter in every template. And one more row to check the thickness.

Key-and-notch pairs compensated exactly like the templates, each with its value engraved: the one that goes in snug is your kerf, no calipers and no sums. Plus a row of slots to check the thickness.

How to use it

Cut it with what you will cut afterwards. The same material, the same power, the same speed and the same focus. Kerf does not belong to the machine: it belongs to the beam in that wood at that power, and it changes if any of the four does. A 3 mm MDF and a 3 mm acrylic do not share one.

Try each key in the notch with the same number. The right one goes in with a firm push of the finger, no hammering, and does not drop out when you lift the strip. Smaller numbers go in loose or wobble; bigger numbers will not go in. That number is what goes in “Kerf” in every template.

If you land between two, use the one in the middle. And to fine tune, cut a second, smaller test around the one you got, in steps of 0.01. By default it runs from 0 to 0.2 in steps of 0.025: nine pairs, which cover what a CO2 or a diode laser cuts.

The number is not a matter of taste, it is the width of the cut. In the templates every notch is drawn half a kerf narrower on each side and every tab half a kerf wider. The laser, as it cuts, eats half its beam width on each side of the line. The two cancel out when the number entered equals the real width of the cut, and then tab and notch come out exact. So there is one right answer, and this test finds it with no calipers and no sums.

Both sides are compensated, like real joints. The key comes out one kerf wider and the notch one kerf narrower, just like a tab and its notch on a box. That doubles the sensitivity: from one pair to the next the fit changes by two steps, five hundredths of a millimetre with steps of 0.025, and you can feel it.

The second row checks the thickness. They are closed slots like the ones that take the shelves in the templates: the thickness minus the kerf. Push the key in edgewise into the slot with the number you got above. If it fits just as snug, the thickness you entered is right. If it is loose, your sheet is thinner than that: lower the thickness. If it will not go in, it is thicker: raise it. MDF sold as “3 mm” usually comes in at 2.7.

Some machines cut differently one way than the other. If the beam is not round, the kerf across the bed and along it differ. To find out, cut the test twice, the second time turned ninety degrees. If they differ, use the one in between.

Frequently asked questions

Kerf test: what size can it be?

Every measurement is typed in millimetres and the drawing is redone as you type; the joints and the holes are worked out from whatever you put in.

Does it work for MDF, acrylic or plywood?

For any sheet your laser can cut: MDF, plywood, acrylic or thick card. Material thickness and kerf — what the beam eats away — are set in the panel, and the drawing is redone with them.

What format does it download in?

SVG or DXF, your choice, in millimetres and at 1:1 scale. It opens as is in LightBurn, RDWorks, LaserGRBL, Inkscape, Illustrator or CorelDRAW, with nothing to scale or convert. Cutting and engraving come on separate named layers — “Cut” in red and “Engrave” in blue — so you set the power for each without separating anything by hand.

Do I have to pay to use it?

No. Kerf test is one of the free ones: use it, adjust it and download it as many times as you like with a free account. No watermark and no missing pieces either.

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